A day at the Saudi table
The easiest way to understand Saudi food isn't a long list of dish names. It's following an ordinary day from morning to night and seeing what people eat at each point, and in each city. Visitors to the Holy Cities are lucky here: the Hijaz has been a meeting point for pilgrims from every corner of the world for centuries, and many of them left their mark on the local table.
Breakfast: ful, tamees and masoub
After Fajr, the neighbourhood bakeries in Makkah, Madinah and Jeddah come to life. The classic Hijazi breakfast is a bowl of slow-cooked ful (fava beans) eaten with tamees, a large flatbread straight from the oven. For something richer, order masoub: torn bread mashed with banana, often topped with cream and honey. In the markets you'll also find mutabbaq, thin dough folded around a filling and cooked on a griddle.
Lunch: the main meal
Lunch is the main meal of the day in Saudi Arabia, usually eaten after Dhuhr. This is when the well-known dishes appear:
- Kabsa: long-grain rice cooked in meat or chicken stock with spices and loomi (dried lime). The best-known Saudi dish of all.
- Mandi: meat or chicken cooked with heat and smoke in a pit or special oven above the rice, which gives it a distinctive smoky flavour.
- Madhghout: rice and meat cooked together in a pressure cooker, so the rice absorbs all the flavour.
- Saleeg: a Hijazi and Taif favourite. Rice is cooked in broth and milk until creamy, then served with chicken.
- Sayadiyah: from coastal Jeddah. Fish with rice coloured brown by deeply fried onions.
Many of these come with daqqus, a spicy tomato sauce that cuts through the richness of the rice.
Afternoon and evening: coffee and dates
Saudi coffee is light in colour and fragrant with cardamom, sometimes with saffron or cloves, and it's served in small cups alongside dates. In Madinah especially, don't miss the city's famous dates, above all Ajwa. Hospitality means your cup will be refilled again and again. When you've had enough, give the cup a gentle shake as you hand it back.
Dinner and late night
After Isha, restaurants and markets fill up. In the Hijaz you'll find mantu and yaghmish, meat-filled pastries that arrived with pilgrims from Central Asia and became part of local food. Grills, shawarma and restaurants from cuisines all over the world are everywhere too.
Flavours from other regions
- Najd (Riyadh and Qassim): jareesh, cracked wheat cooked with yoghurt, plus marqooq and qursan, thin breads in a stew of vegetables and meat.
- Taif: known for fruit in season, such as pomegranates and grapes, and for the Taif rose, used in perfume and some sweets.
- Ramadan: soup and sambusa appear on almost every iftar table, and in the Hijaz, the drink sobia.
Practical tips for visitors
- Portions in traditional restaurants are big. Ask before ordering a plate per person.
- Restaurants near the Holy Mosques are packed straight after prayers. Order a little before, or wait for the rush to ease.
- If you have an allergy, ask clearly. Spices and nuts feature in many dishes.
- Some of the best traditional restaurants are in districts away from the central area, so a short drive opens up many more options.
- Eating with the right hand is customary, but cutlery is always available.
Getting to restaurants beyond the central area
| Ride | Sedan | Family | VIP |
|---|---|---|---|
| Within Makkah (hotels and districts) | 80 SAR | 150 SAR | 300 SAR |
| Within Madinah | 80 SAR | 150 SAR | 300 SAR |
| Within Jeddah (between districts) | 100 SAR | 200 SAR | 300 SAR |
Fares are fixed per car. For more details see Makkah taxi, Madinah taxi and the taxi fare guide.
Visitors' questions
What's the difference between kabsa and mandi?
In kabsa the rice is cooked in spiced meat stock. Mandi is cooked with heat and smoke in a special oven, so it tastes smoky and is usually lighter on spice.
Are there vegetarian options?
Yes: ful, tamees, jareesh, salads and pastries filled with cheese or vegetables, plus plenty of international restaurants in the big cities.
What's a good gift to take home from Madinah?
Dates are the most popular choice, and Madinah has date shops everywhere offering many varieties and box sizes.
When do restaurants open?
Hours vary, but many stay open late into the night. In Ramadan the rhythm shifts around iftar and suhoor.
Need a ride to a restaurant or a date market? Message Mishwar Al Haramain on WhatsApp +966582918075.